The History of Surfing

Although no one knows for sure exactly where and when stand-up surfing began, there is no doubt that over the centuries the ancient sport of "he'e nalu" (wave-sliding) was absolutely perfected by the Kings and Queens- and the men and women of the Sandwich Isles, long before the 15th century AD. Their fortuitous position by way of longitude and latitude brought the great waves of the Pacific in all shapes and sizes to these islands.

Hawaiians attached great mystique to the ocean and her moods. They had their own prayers, chanters, board shapers, wood and beaches where they alone could surf with others of similar rank. No one dared to drop in on their wave, not a chance, because that meant death, or at least a near death experience. Which ever board they choose, olo, kiko'o (longboard) or alaia (short), the chiefs took great pride in the skill, grace, speed, and courage with which they rode the Pacific's swells. However, even as Hawaii's royal sport enjoyed immense popularity at the end of the 18th century, a profound change was about to dismantle almost every aspect of Hawaii's ancient culture-including sports, games, Kapa-making, ritual dancing, canoe-building- all was to disappear, just as the Hawaiian's smooth dark skin disappeared under gaudy gingham clothes- right down to the overthrow of Hawaii's government. The transformation began with the very discovery of the islands by Capt. Cook. One day late in the 18th century, a strange thing happened... Unusual "floating islands," massive watercraft with white billowing wings, appeared on their horizons. It was under such awesome and historical circumstances, bobbing in offshore waters, that the white man, haole, met his first surfer.